Itinerary: NC500 + Orkney+Isle of Skye
Day 0(4/9): Arrive in Inverness, sleep in Inverness.
Day 1(4/10): Dunrobin Castle, John O’Groats, Dunnett’s Head for puffins.
Day 2(4/11): Ferry to Orkney(Old Man of Hoy): Skara Brae, Earl’s Palace, Brough of Birsay, Ring of Brodgar, Standing Stone of Stenness, Broch of Gurness, Bishop’s Palace & Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall.
Day 3(4/12): Magnus Cathedral, Thurso, North Coast visitor center(Pictish Stones), Strathnaver Museum, Kyle of Tongue, Smoo Cave.
Day 4(4/13): Durness-Ullapool: Ardvreck Castle, Inchnadamph Bone Cave, route to Assynt scenic coastal route(Inverpolly area), Lochinver(Delilah’s).
The details
Day 0
The most convenient way to start this North Coast 500 journey is from Inverness. After landing in Glasgow, I took the train directly north to Inverness to tuck up for the evening. I chose to stay at a pub hotel called “Hootananey” which I highly recommend. The rooms are above the pub but sound doesn’t travel up too badly. Beds were very comfy. But the best part was the Scottish music every evening. The food was top-notch as well!
Day 1
After picking up my car from Arnold Clark(highly recommend them, they also offered to pick me up from the train station), I got straight into driving north. I have decided to follow the NC 500 counter clockwise. There were several consideration that played into this decision. First, the road on the eastern side of the NC500 was wider and thus were more forgiving to start. Second, I wanted to save the best for last.
The first stop was Dunrobin Castle. This is the seat of the Clan Sutherland which is still very much active in Scotland. The interior of the castle is very much worth an hour or two. The garden in the back was lovely stroll as well. Additionally, they had falconry shows at certain times of the day, weather permitting. Be sure to check that out.
Speaking of clans, I highly recommend reading up on the history of different clans. Much of Scotland’s history evolved around the rise and falls of the clans since the 12th century. Your trip will certainly be much more interesting armed with the colorful clan history.
Next stop was the ancestral seat of clan Sinclair(yup, that dinosaur gas station), the dramatic ruins of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. The castle was built on the cliffside, making it a dramatic setting for many of its turbulent historic chapters. I also highly recommend going down to the historic loading beach right below the castle to listen to the crushing waves.
I wanted to make it to Orkney the next day, so I drive onward straight towards John O’Groats. John O’Groats is sometimes mistaken for the northernmost point of Scotland. However, it’s certainly north enough to be the end terminal of End to End’ journey to Land’s End in England, some 876 miles away. Other than the must-stop signpost, I would also recommend trying out the beers brewed at the John O’Groats brewery.
Last stop of the day was the true northernmost point of mainland Scotland, Dunnett’s Head. In addition to being an important geographic mark, this was also a great place for puffin watch. The camp site manager was kind enough to let me know the exact location of the puffins which I could see with my bare eyes with telescopic lens.
After some good whiskey that I bough at John O”Groats, it was time to tuck in and go to sleep with the sounds of the waves.
Day 2(4/11): Ferry to Orkney(Old Man of Hoy): Skara Brae, Earl’s Palace, Brough of Birsay, Ring of Brodgar, Standing Stone of Stenness, Broch of Gurness, Bishop’s Palace & Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall
I am a massive fan of history and archaeology of the prehistoric to medieval era. Orkney was the perfect place for this period of history. The sites I visited were ): Skara Brae, Earl’s Palace, Brough of Birsay, Ring of Brodgar, Standing Stone of Stenness, Broch of Gurness, Bishop’s Palace & Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall.
But before we get to the amazing historic sites, the first site one got to view was the dramatic seastack of Old Man of Hoy on Hoy.
Orkney is not a very big island but the sites are sufficiently apart that one needs a motor form of transportation.
Orkney itself felt like stepping into a living museum. I explored the incredibly well-preserved Neolithic village of Skara Brae, offering a fascinating insight into life thousands of years ago. History continued to unfold as I visited the ruins of the Earl’s Palace and the tidal island of Brough of Birsay. The ancient allure of the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness was palpable, their mysterious presence a testament to a bygone era. I also explored the impressive Broch of Gurness and the historical Bishop’s Palace & Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall, soaking in centuries of Orkney’s rich heritage.
I explored the incredibly well-preserved Neolithic village of Skara Brae, which thrived over 5,000 years ago, even before Stonehenge or the Egyptian pyramids. Discovered by a storm in 1850, it offers a unique glimpse into the lives of early farmers, hunters, and fishermen.
History continued to unfold as I visited the ruins of the Earl’s Palace in Birsay and the tidal island of Brough of Birsay. The Brough of Birsay was a significant Norse settlement from the early 9th century, with layers of building and rebuilding revealing centuries of occupation.
Passing through some island sheep traffic, I arrived at the archeological center of the island of Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stennes. The ancient allure of the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness was palpable, their mysterious presence a testament to a bygone era. The Stones of Stenness, possibly the earliest henge monument in the British Isles, date back around 5,400 years, while the Ring of Brodgar, built around 2500-2000BC, is the third largest stone circle in the British Isles, hinting at ritual and ceremonial purposes, possibly even astronomical observation.
I also explored the impressive Broch of Gurness, a Iron Age village that began to be settled between 500 BC and 200 BC, centered around a circular broch tower. My day concluded with a visit to the historical Bishop’s Palace & Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall. The Bishop’s Palace dates back to the early 1100s, built around the same time as the St. Magnus Cathedral. The Earl’s Palace, on the other hand, was constructed around 1606 by Patrick, Earl of Orkney, a notorious ruler known as ‘Black Patie’, who was even accused of using slave labor.
To wrap up the day, I visited the renowned Highland Park Distillery, which utilizes Orkney’s distinctive heather peat. They also kept the hand-turned floor maltings, which were fascinating to view.
Day 3: Following the North Coast’s Ancient Trails
Unfortunately I am leaving Orkney today. Though there are still some places to explore. I started the day with a visit to the magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. Founded in 1137 when Orkney was part of the Kingdom of Norway, this impressive red and yellow sandstone cathedral is predominantly Romanesque in style and dedicated to St. Magnus, Earl of Orkney. The most notable features in this cathedral was the “memento mori” carved or dedicated on each of the signs and gravemarks. This was very popular at the time reminding everyone that life is short, death is never so far away.
Before going to the ferry, I made one last stop to admire the mysterious Unstan Chambered Cairn. This chambered cairn was a remarkable Neolithic burial monument dating back approximately 5,000 years. Its design features a rectangular central chamber divided into five compartments by upright stone slabs, reminiscent of stalls, but unusually for a stalled cairn, it also includes a single side cell, a characteristic more commonly associated with Maeshowe-type tombs. Excavations have revealed it served as a communal burial place, containing human remains and a distinctive collection of pottery bowls, now famously known as “Unstan Ware,” which have been found at other Neolithic sites across Orkney. I personally really enjoyed visiting this chambered cairn as I was the only one visiting it that day. Having the monument all to myself allowed me to truly enjoy its history.
Jumping off the ferry, my first stop was Thurso and its North Coast Visitor Center to see fascinating Pictish Stones, enigmatic carved stones dating from around AD 600 to 800s, reminders of the ancient Pictish people who inhabited Scotland.
The Strathnaver Museum offered further insights into local history, especially the history of the tragic Highland Clearing of the McKay clan.
From this point on, the North coast 500 had officially started becoming very narrow. It definitely took some getting used to. The road to Kyle of Tongue, my next stop, was especially tough. Google Maps guided me to a shortcut to connect onto Kyle of Tongue. This shortcut was incredibly narrow and did not fit two cars at all. I had to back up all the way to the entrance of the road to let another car pass. If possible, choose the non-shortcut route.
The day culminated in an exploration of Smoo Cave, a dramatic sea cave, a geological wonder formed by both freshwater and saltwater erosion.
Today is a shorter day, so I elected to take some time to eat and chat at the pub inside the Sango Sands Oasis campground. Highly recommend staying here. They had nice hot showers and access to the unbeatable seaside views.
Day 4: From Durness to Ullapool: Castles and Caves
The drive from Durness to Ullapool was a feast for the eyes, showcasing some of Scotland’s most breathtaking scenery. the picturesque ruins of Ardvreck Castle, built in the 15th century by the MacLeods on a rocky peninsula of Loch Assynt. Though largely ruined by the early 18th century, its dramatic setting makes it a popular attraction.
Nearby, I ventured into the Inchnadamph Bone Cave. These natural limestone caves are famous for the extensive animal bones discovered during excavations, including those of extinct species like wolves, bears, and even a Northern lynx, with geological evidence suggesting some finds date back to the Upper Palaeolithic period. The hike itself was relatively mellow but certainly not lacking good views. Most of the time I was hiking by stream with the pleasant sounds of the flowing water accompanying me.
The route through the Assynt scenic coastal route and the Inverpolly area was absolutely spectacular, with jagged mountains and serene lochs at every turn. I ended the day in the charming fishing village of Lochinver, enjoying a well-deserved meal at Delilah’s.
Arriving Ullapool early had me itching for something to do. Weather was still pleasant so I opted for a hike up to the Meall Mhor – Ullapool before rounding out the evening with a classic seafood meal.
