This was Day 5 of my trip in Zermatt, Switzerland. Day started rainy again. Though, determined not to waste a day, I decided to go on some gentler hikes to discover more of the local history. There is a well marked history hike from Zermatt to Zmutt that allows you to discover what’s left of the old villages including the oldest barn in Europe.
As per usual, every village has restaurants. I stopped at Zmutt to grab a nice bite to eat in the quaint village of Zmutt.
Nothing else was really planned for the day, just how I liked it. I met up with a friend and slowly strolled back to Zermatt in the misty rain.
Day 6: A Trail of Lakes and Iconic Vistas
Day two was dedicated to an epic hike that promised stunning views and a good workout. I embarked on the famous 5-Lakes Trail, but with a twist. My plan was to hike from the 5-Lakes Trail, but break away at the second lake and hike up to Gornergrat, passing by Lake Riffelsee, see the famous black nose sheep, and then descend back down toward Zermatt. This made for a challenging and rewarding day, covering an estimated 13-14 miles.
The hike began with a scenic cable car ride to Blauherd, the starting point of the 5-Lakes Trail. The trail winds through alpine meadows and rocky terrain, leading you to five shimmering lakes: Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee, and Leisee. Each lake offers a unique perspective of the surrounding peaks, with the Matterhorn reflected in its tranquil waters. Stellisee, in particular, is a photographer’s dream. I was one of the first people up that day, so I got to photograph the lake without people around. Another advantage is that you can stay by the lake in peace for a little while before the crowd arrives. If you aren’t sure if the day is nice, there are cameras near each of the gondola stations, which you can check out before departing for where you are going.
The connecting point between the 5 5-Lakes trail and the trail up Gonergrat is right by Grunsee. The trail itself is actually quite hard to follow without guidance. Luckily for me, a trail race was set to happen the day after. The organizers already had the signs up and ready, so I followed the race sign-up towards Gonergrat. Along the way, I could hear the sheep and the gentle rings of sheepbells. It took me a while to visually locate the sheep; they were quite a distance away with a shepherd and a shepherd’s dog working hard to keep the herd moving. The sheep bell indeed could be really helpful in bad conditions, considering the distance the ring could travel. Generally, shepherds prefer people not to touch any of their animals, so I kept my distance. If you really wanted to get close to the sheep, there is a herd of sheep that is officially approved for tourism that you can get up close to each day from 10am to 4pm.(See more of it later on in this blog.)
The steep mountain trail brought me up to a lake near the Gornergrat. Judging by the life ring nearby the lake, it seemed like a good lake primed for swimming. Though the constructions nearby were not exceptionally scenic, I opted to move downward to the Riffelsea just below the Gornergrat. Because I had gone up to the Gornergrat a few days before, I didn’t think going up again was necessary. The way down to Riffelsee was not as clear. The trail was not marked, and you need it to walk a section next to the railway. Close to the Rotenboden station, you need to cross the railway from a bridge just past the station. Once you go into the Alpine garden just up above the station, you’ll be able to see Riffelsee to your front right. Riffelsee is most famous for being the other lake that had the perfect reflection of the Matterhorn. This was certainly true on that day. Though by the time I made it to the lake, it was already getting a little crowded, so I didn’t linger too long before moving downwards to find the herd of black nose sheep that I could get up and close with.
The trail down from rifle Z to search for the sheep was well defined and was extremely scenic. I tried to time my dissent with the level and the density of the clouds and was able to keep Matterhorn in my sight the entire time.
Finally, I reached the summit of Gornergrat. The view from the Gornergrat Kulm hotel and observatory is simply unparalleled. A sea of glaciers and jagged peaks surrounds you. After taking countless photos and soaking in the incredible scenery, I began the long descent back to Zermatt. The trail down offers continuous, breathtaking views, a perfect way to end a day of strenuous but incredibly rewarding hiking. I kept walking downward in search of the fluff of cute black nosed herd. Conveniently for me, there is a web page that shows the GPS location of the sheep. You can access this from the official Gonergrat railway website. For me, it showed that the sheep was between the Riffelberg and Riffelalp stations. So I continued walking downward following the tracks next to the railway tracks. After some switchbacks, I heard the ringing of the bells and the occasional bar again. It was the sheep! This herd is the official herd for tourism to the Zermatt region, available for tourists to get up close to the sheep for two months in the summer. Each summer, different shepherds would come to shepherd the herd. This time, it was a student from Lausanne.
According to the Valais Blacknose Sheep Society, the Blacknose sheep, also called the Valais Blacknose sheep, originates in the Valais region of Switzerland. The earliest mention of the breed dates back to 1400 A.D., but they were first recognized as a separate breed in 1962. They are a dual-purpose breed, raised for meat and wool. They are unique to the Upper Valais and are well adapted to the harsh mountain conditions, being extremely hardy, prolific, and frugal.
The black on its nose, eyes, ears, knees, hocks, and feet, and otherwise light woolly coats make them quite unmistakable. They have large helical or spiral-shaped horns, as you will see in the pictures below. They are good at grazing steep, rocky slopes. Both sexes are horned. When you get close to these sheep, the shepherd will come up to you and explain the rules to you. You can photograph the sheep and even pet the sheep; however, please do not feed the sheep under any circumstances. In any case, the sheep would probably be grazing themselves already; no extra food needed.
It was extremely delightful to spend time with these cute sheep, which you probably couldn’t find anywhere else in the world. Though my stomach started to growl quite a bit, and with the clouds moving away, we could finally descend to Riffelalp for some much-needed late lunch. It’s worth mentioning that it is not very hard to find food; there are restaurants located at every single corner guard train station. I found one close to the hotel at Riffelalp, and was able to snatch a seat facing the Matterhorn. In true European style, I had some pasta and some Alpine salmon from the Swiss lakes with zucchini for lunch. To round it all out, I also had some Swiss white wine from the Valais valley and the classic soft drink Rivella to replenish some energy.
It’s time to head back to Zermatt. From Riffelalp one could take the train back down to Zermatt. However wanting to save a bit of money I’ve decided to walk rest of the way back. About 3 miles later, I have arrived back in the hustle and bustle of zermat with activities now in full swing there are a few rainy days.
To celebrate a successful day, I met with the two Americans I saw from the day before for fondue with local meats, and a drink to celebrate. Most people know about the cheese fondue, but here, there were also hot pot like fondue which serves lamb that took advantage of the local blacknose sheep ranches. I highly recommend Restaurant Schäferstube as they restaurant uses local meats in these fondues.
Day 7: E-mountain biking and the last meal of Alps
On my final day, I decided to explore the Zermatt region on two wheels. I rented a bike from Decathlon and set off on a fantastic cycling adventure along the valley to the mountain town of Tasch and Randa. Zermatt is honestly a great place to try out e-mountain bikes. These capable rides usually cost a couple of thousand dollars here in the U.S., but cost less than a hundred to rent for the day. With that, I decided to give it a go. From Zermatt to Tasch was a steeper downhill ride, which meant a good workout on the way back. The trail followed the valley along the Vispa River, with the landscape gradually changing from the bustling village of Zermatt to open meadows with further trails leading towards the mountains on the side. I also tried my hand at riding the Taschachalp trail towards the Taschachalp lodge for a better view of the Tasch village.
It’s relatively flat from Tasch to Randa. Along the ride, I discovered a hidden gem: a small swimming hole. Best for the hottest days out here in the mountains. I also passed a beautifully manicured golf course, its green fairways a stark contrast to the surrounding rocky peaks. From the golf courses to the town of Randa, the road got a lot busier, and the riding trail turned back to the rooty and steep single tracks. Unfamiliar with dirt biking in general, I opted to walk a few sections that were a little technical and risky, considering I didn’t have knee pads or elbow pads. If you intend on writing the dirt roads from Zermatt to Rhonda or ever further, I highly recommend renting the full set of protective gear, as the trail can be extremely narrow, steep, rocky, rooty, and shared with pedestrians on top of that.
After a steep and grittier ride back to the town of Zermatt, I still had some time left in the day before I needed to pick up my luggage and head to the train station. I opted to ride around the five lakes area, where I just went two days ago, and enjoy a nice meal facing the Matterhorn. Similar to the days before, I took the train and gondola up to the Sunnegga station, then a gondola trip to Blauherd before riding the steep incline towards the Flualp Restaurant. Flualp Restaurant was optimally located on the sunnier side of the mountain, facing the Matterhorn. I was very lucky that the day was clear for a nice meal outside. In addition to the nice views, Fluhalp was also known for its delicious food and incredible terrace views. The ride up was a challenging and exhilarating climb despite being short in length. When I arrived, the effort was instantly forgotten. I was greeted by a stunning panorama of the Matterhorn and the surrounding glaciers. I refueled with a hearty lunch of traditional Swiss dishes, savoring every bite while admiring the view. The atmosphere was lively and inviting, with hikers and bikers sharing stories of their day’s adventures.
The final leg of my biking journey was a thrilling descent. From Fluhalp, I rode down a winding, exhilarating trail to Blauherd, and then continued all the way to Sunnegga. The trail was a mix of single-track and wider paths, offering a fun and dynamic ride. With the wind in my hair and the magnificent mountains as my backdrop, it was the perfect way to cap off my Zermatt experience. From Blauherd, due to time constraints, I opted to take the train back down to Zermatt and end the ride.
Time to return the bike, pick up my luggage, and head to Zurich. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Zermatt. It was more than just a place; it’s an experience that awakens the senses and rejuvenates the soul. From the quiet contemplation of its history to the adrenaline of its trails, it offers a perfect blend of adventure and serenity. If you’re looking for an unforgettable journey, pack your bags and head to the heart of the Swiss Alps. You won’t be disappointed.
