Day 1 Arrival and Gornergrat
Landed in Zurich, I jumped on the train straight away to head to Zermatt and prep for the upcoming days. It takes about three to four hours of train to get from Zurich airport to Zermatt which is similar to Geneva.
It’s worth getting the half-off Swiss pass if you are taking the train and lifts to/in Zermatt. The pass does cost over 100 Swiss Francs. However, with the costly train rides and gondola rides to up to places like Glacier Paradise, which is the highest point you can reach via gondola, on the border to Italy, you should consider the half off.
Unfortunately, the weather on my original dates was going to be wet and dangerous. Matterhorn requires the weather to be really optimal. Due to the bad weather, most climbers changed their itinerary, so the hut was booked entirely because of this. So I needed to get lucky; either luck is on my side and a spot at the hut opens up, or I needed to get lucky with the weather on the very last day of my vacation to push for the summit. My logistics company Zermatter would let me know later on that day.
Meanwhile, I decided to acclimatize further using the well-established train and gondola systems in Zermatt. A team up to the famous Gornergrat view point would get me up to 3000meters; well positioned to help me with acclimatization.
The view from Gornergrat towards the Matterhorn was truly spectacular. The edges of the Matterhorn were well defined. I took a quick walk towards the Monte Rosa hut to stretch my legs. It’s always shocking to see the change in the glaciers from season to season. Though I couldn’t say I would like to ski any of this right now. This short hike also allowed one to see all the peaks surrounding Zermatt, and provided a good chance to check out all the surroundings before climbing any of the mountains.
On my way down the Gornergrat, Zermatter called to let me know there was a spot opening up in the huts. Lucky! I decided to take it despite being jetlagged, tired, and likely to be dehydrated from the immediate preceding climb up to Breithorn. Though trusting in my own ability to perform during sub-optimal conditions, I chose to bet on myself. Here we go…
Day 2 Traverse on Breithorn and approach to Hornlihütte
To prep for the Matterhorn, Zermatter ask everyone to do a prep climb. I chose to Breithorn with a half traverse that included climbing on the ridge. I was joined today by guide Christian and a fellow climber Helli.
Helli and I on the Breithorn half-traverse.
Breithorn in itself was not a tough climb if you are taking the lift, then heading straight to the summit. However, the guiding company wanted to make sure we had the adequate skills to succeed on the Matterhorn. Thus, we added a ridge traverse in addition to getting to the summit. This meant going further out and traversing through a US-rated class 3 to low class 5 terrain.
Christian and I on the rock
The Swiss guiding company was also using this time to gauge our speed, see if we could move efficiently on snow and rock. Christian started out moving quite fast to see if we could catch up.
Because there were two clients on the rope team, each should also have the proper skills to use natural features as protection. Additionally, we should be accommodating of each other on speed, by catching up with the fast-moving Christian.
All in all, Breithorn was a very successful climb. Though my day was not done yet, I needed to rush up to the Hornli hut to prepare for the Matterhorn summit push. Despite waking up early and climbing in the sun for a few hours, this was my only chance to summit the Matterhorn before the weather rolled in. I needed to hydrate and recover fast. Once I arrived at the hut, I immediately started unpacking, napping, and drinking water. Because the hut was quite well stocked, I was able to rehydrate and had a nice dinner before catching a few hours of sleep.
Day 3 Matterhorn summit!
Summit morning on the Matterhorn followed a very strict routine: 4 o’clock breakfast, 15 minutes for breakfast, 5 minutes to do final organization. Swiss-affiliated guides and clients leave between 4:20 and 4:25 am; other guides stagger 5-10 minutes apart. Independents went last. Four hours up, four hours back down to the Hornlihütte. The entire operation worked like a Swiss clock.
Progress during the climb was timed as well. Swiss guides want you to be at the upper emergency Solvay hut no later than two and a half hours after departure. But of course, they really want you to climb as fast as possible. On the Matterhorn, speed was safety.
Technical competence was paramount as well. Even if you go with a guide, realize that you wouldn’t be anchored in or on belay most of the time with high exposure. There were a few anchor points, but only for the few crux sections. Everyone simul-climb most of the sections with high exposure. To put it simply, slips or trips are fatal. Just don’t be one of the six people on average who die on the Matterhorn every year.
The first half from Hornlihütte to the Solvay hut went by fast and you needed to climb fast as well. The first half for me was full of hard breathing and teeth grinning. My guide Alex was extremely experienced so he often chose the shortest route which meant I needed to climb even harder. I took around one hour and forty minutes to get to the Solvay hut.
The sun rose just about now. Climbers are all rushing up to try and keep up with the Swiss guides. Due to the upcoming bad weather, there were a lot of groups trying to get up. Swiss guides seems to have the right of passage over everyone. Whenever there is a traffic jam, Swiss guides found a way to climb over and pass the other teams; no one could say anything.
I took a brief test to fuel up and drink up. Then it was time to keep rushing ahead. Some time later, my guide Alex found another spot where I could stop to put crampons on. During the time we climbed, the Matterhorn mainly was dry with a few icy spots. We chose to ditch our ice axes. Though this meant good footwork was critical.
We quickly ascended through the “roof” section of the Matterhorn with our crampons on. Ice seems to be very agreeable. Footing was secure for the few sections that required front pointing. After just a short while, there it was: Saint Bernard and Swiss knife ridge summit! We made it!
Three hours and forty-five minutes, I couldn’t believe I made it with such good speed with the fatigue and jetlag. Forty-eight hours after landing in Zurich and twenty hours after summiting, I summited the Matterhorn!
We walked across the summit border to the Italian side as well, savouring the Victory and the morning light. Alex was able to find a spot that is somewhat sheltered from the wind. We sat down to fuel up and ready for the descend.
Descend was surprisingly fast for me. Down climbing was not as bad as I thought, but there were certainly quite a few sketchy spots. Again, we descended without rest till the Solvay hut, fueling up again, then to the final stretch. The last portion certainly seemed the longest, I could see the Hornlihütte from quite high up. It felt so close, yet we were still a bit ways away. Some more patience and grunting, I finally arrived at the base. I was happy and surprised to find Helli waiting at the base. Truly happy to see a friendly face at the end of this. In total, it took me around three hours and thirty minutes for the descent.
Day 4: Matterhorn Museum & Mountaineer’s Cemetery
The day right after Matterhorn was a rest day. I started by having a big breakfast and a stroll around town.
Just a short walk from the church and the town center is the Mountaineers’ Cemetery. This somber and beautiful site was a poignant reminder of the dangers of mountaineering. The headstones honored those who lost their lives on the surrounding peaks, their stories a testament to the enduring allure and inherent risks of climbing. It’s a place for quiet reflection, offering a profound sense of the human spirit’s connection to the mountains.
The Matterhorn Museum wouldn’t open till 2pm in the afternoon, so I decided to go for some traditional lunch first. One of the foods you have to try is rosti, a shredded potato pancake, which is kind of like American hash brown. Usually it is accompanied by some sort of protein: sausage, steak, egg are some of the common proteins. I had rosti with sausage and onion sauce; it was absolutely amazing, especially with pickles.
Now it was time to visit the Matterhorn museum. This underground museum was a treasure trove of artifacts and stories, detailing the village’s transformation from a remote farming community to a world-renowned tourist destination. The exhibits poignantly recounted the first ascent of the Matterhorn and the tragic events that followed, offering a deep respect for the mountain’s power and the climbers’ courage. Not only did I get to view the broken equipments that caused many climbing tragedies in the surrounding mountains, I also got to read the court proceedings regarding the tragedy of the first ascent of the Matterhorn.
I ended the day with a nice drink at a hidden bar called “z’alt Hischi Bar-Pub-Restaurant” on Google maps. The bar has got quite a bit of history. Hidden from plain site, the price was fair and atmosphere was great. I met two friendly fellow U.S. travellers and chatted long into the night.
