Day 5(4/14): Falls of Measach,NC500 coastal route, Loch Maree, Beinn Eighe Mountain trail.
Day 6(4/15): Drive through Bealach na Ba, Isle of Raasay(Brochel Castle, Calum’s road, Arnish walk, Rassay Distrillery), Porttree(Skye)
Day 7 (4/16): Skye: Old Man of Storr, Quiraing(Prison Walk loop), Fairy Glen, St.Columba’s Isle, Talisker Distillery
Day 8(4/17): Return car at 5pm. Ardelve, Eileen Donan Castle, Urquhart Castle, back to Inverness.
Day 9(4/18): Homebound!
Day 5: Embracing the Wild on the NC500
Bidding goodbye to Ullapool and the welcoming host at the Ullapool hostel, my first stop was the Falls of Measach in the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve (National Trust for Scotland). This was a short stop, but the waterfall was certainly awe-inspiring. Come here early so you can beat the admiring crowds. You don’t have to wait till the visitor center opens, there are enough plaques explaining along the way.
Gairloch museum. Gairloch museum used to be a communications bunker during the Cold War. This museum includes excellent folk information about the North West Scottish Highlands. Displays include the original lens from Rubh Re Lighthouse, a replica croft house that shows how people used to live. It also has an excellent café where I thoroughly stuffed my belly before embarking on an afternoon of nature adventures.
Heading Southeast of Gairloch via the A832 road will lead you to the serene beauty of Loch Maree was particularly captivating, its calm waters reflecting the surrounding mountains.
Along side Loch Maree was Scotland’s first National Nature Reserve: Beinn Eighe and Loch Maree Islands NNR. Parking along side of the road, you can take in the beaty of the natural reserve and partake in one of the hikes. Here I took on the most beaturiful hikes of this trip, the Beinn Eighe Mountain loop trail. The dramatic scale of the Scottish wilderness coupled with the lightening change of weather made for an unforgettable hike. See it for yourself.
I wrapped up the night staying in one of the most idyllic places on this trip: Applecross. The best route to choose here was the coastal NC500 route, which led to great views of Raasay and Skye. There is only one inn and one campground. The serene nature of the surroundings helped me forget all the troubles in the world. I also got to fangirl out by visiting one of the Brochs that Channel 4’s Time Team investigated and excavated. It’s not the easiest to get to, but Applecross was definitely one of my favorite places to stay on this trip.
Day 6: Bealach na BÃ and the Isle of Raasay
One of the most thrilling drives of my trip was definitely through Bealach na BÃ . This winding, single-track road, known for its hairpin bends and steep ascents, existed as a simple track for centuries before construction of the current road began in 1818, finally completed in 1822. It offers incredible views and an exhilarating experience. There are a few places to stop along the way to take pictures. Though I think slowly driving through it is the best way to enjoy this road.
Lopoping around Loch Carron, my next stop was the famed Isle of Skye. It’s quite a long drive from the mainland to the main sites on Skye so I decided to visit the highland coos and Isle of Raasay first.
The ferry down to Isle of Raasay departs from a port just 30 minutes away from the main entry point to the isle of Skye. The ferry was airy and picturesque. I even saw some rare local bottlenose dolphins breaching the surface.
Here, I explored the ruins of Brochel Castle, most likely built in the 15th century by the first MacLeod chief of Raasay, Calum Garbh. This ingenious fusion of natural rock and masonry, perched on a volcanic plug, once commanded the coastline. The walk down is a bit slippery and might involve some sheep dodging, parking is also limited. Luckily, this hasn’t gotten really popular yet
I also walked a portion of the famous Calum’s Road, a remarkable testament to one man’s dedication – Calum Macleod, a postman, lighthouse keeper, and crofter, who spent nearly two decades building this road with just a pick, shovel, and wheelbarrow. At the end of Calum’s road was Arnish Walk, which one can trace all the way up the tip of the island and spend the night in one of the bothys up there.
Last order of the day paid a visit to the Raasay Distillery to sample some local spirits. The unique point about the whiskey at this distillery is that everything, other than peat, was made local. They even had a lodge and a bar for those who’d like to stay longer. Unfortunately, not me. Packing up some whiskeys I rushed on to the last ferry and head to Portree on the Isle of Skye to hunker down for the night.
Day 7: Magical Skye: Legends and Landscapes
The Isle of Skye lived up to its reputation as a truly magical place. I started my day hiking to the iconic Old Man of Storr, an otherworldly rock formation. Geologically, it’s part of a massive ancient landslip. Legend attributes its formation to a giant’s thumb, or even a couple turned to stone by mischievous fairies. If you want a truly magical experience, try waking up early to beat the crowd. The rock formations were truly out of this world, so were the views towards the ocean. I would one hundred percent recommend walking out to the viewpoint, just a bit of distance away from the main rocks, for the best views. I would also recommend going on the loop walk counter-clockwise to make it gentler on your knees.
Special shout out to The Hungry Gull cafe in Staffin for filling me up for an entire day of activities. Hands down the best meal I have had in Scotland. Special recommendations are sausage rolls and the salmon egg toast.
The Quiraing then stole the show with its dramatic landslips and unique rock formations; I even did the Prison Walk loop to truly immerse myself in its majesty. The Quiraing was formed by extensive volcanic activity, with layers of basalt exposed through erosion and uplift, creating its unique landscape. The loop walk bring you to the top then drops you back down. From the top, you can see fantastic rock formation that hides from the eye at the bottom. Just be aware that it is extremely windy and slippery at the top near the edges, bring a good jacket!
The enchanting Fairy Glen felt like something out of a storybook, with its miniature hills and winding paths. While geologically formed by an ancient landslide, local folklore is rich with tales of “Fair Folk” who are said to inhabit and even have created this whimsical landscape. This was a friendly and mellow walk in a not very large area. It shouldn’t take you too long to browse through.
I also visited the historic St. Columba’s Isle, where it’s said St. Columba, an Irish missionary, established one of his five monastic communities on Skye, and which once housed a cathedral and abbey. You will find many interesting effigies on St.Columba’s Isle. Being in the middle of a river, it’s worth taking a quick stroll
I concluded my Skye exploration with a tour and tasting at the renowned Talisker Distillery. Because I had been to quite a few of the distillery tours already, I decided to just join on the tasting tour. The gentleman guiding us was very detailed in his explanations. I thoroughly enjoyed the whiskey, which is fitting for the weather in northern Scotland. After a day of been battered by the wind, the salty and medium peat whiskeys just hit the spot for me. (pro tip: if you are driving, you can ask for small containers to take the whiskeys home.)
Day 8: Castles and the Road Back to Inverness
My final full day in Northern Scotland was dedicated to iconic castles. After returning my car at 5 PM, I first visited the picturesque village of Ardelve, home to the majestic Eilean Donan Castle. Though first inhabited around the 6th century, the first fortified castle was built in the mid-13th century. Partially destroyed in a Jacobite uprising in 1719, it lay in ruins for nearly 200 years until its restoration in the early 20th century, making it one of Scotland’s most iconic and visited castles today.
My final castle stop was the historic Urquhart Castle, perched on the shores of Loch Ness, offering stunning views and a sense of ancient grandeur. The site likely began as an extensive fort between the 5th and 11th centuries. The earliest record of a castle here dates to 1296 when it was captured by Edward I of England at the start of the Wars of Scottish Independence. Throughout the centuries, ownership frequently passed between Scottish and English crowns, and later, the Scottish crown battled the powerful Macdonalds, Lords of the Isles, for control. The castle was eventually partially destroyed by departing soldiers in 1692 to prevent its reoccupation by Jacobites.
After 885 miles, finally, I made my way back to Inverness, after another night of enjoying the whiskey sauce with haggis. More whiskeys, and upbeat Scottish music.
