Time to go back. All the back to the beginning of my journey, to the beginning of humans’ existence on the Emerald Isles. From the ruins to the miracles of St.Patrick, and to the Tuatha Dé Dananns and the Neolithic people who originated from the present Turkey region. All of the great buildings and crumbling ruins left behind those who came before brought me to this island full of stories.
I started the rewind from Inch Abbey. The 12th to 13th-century Cistercian monastery was founded by John de Courcy as his atonement. Nowadays, it’s not only popular with romantics, but also movie producers. Robb Stark in Game of Thrones was declared King of the North at this exact location, attracting many show fans. You can even take a tour which you can dress up as a Norseman to be declared King or Queen of the North.
Let’s keep on winding back the clock to the time of the early Christian saints. Ever wondered where St. Patrick was buried? The most popular educated guess is by the Down Cathedral where St. Patrick was prophesized to be buried with two other saints. Who would have thought that the unassuming large headstone by the cathedral is the resting place of a missionary who is celebrated worldwide? (Who would have also thought people wear short green tutus in his name?) Perhaps this is what the saint wanted, not to remember his physical body, but the tales and miracles of him.
One of the most significant accomplishments of St. Patrick was that he converted much of Ireland, especially kings to Christians. Since then, the kings of the Catholic world have to be officially recognized and crowned by the Catholic authorities. Who were the authorities before the Popes then?
Before Christianity, much of Ireland practiced a form of nature-based “shamanism.” Thus, it’s no surprise that a particular stone filled the role of confirming one’s reign. The Lia Fáil, or “the Stone of Destiny,” at the Hill of Tara is said to roar in rejoice when a true sovereign touch it.
While my dream of being a secret queen somewhere in the world may have been crushed. That is not to say I wasn’t excited to be at the Hill of Tara. If you get to visit the National Archeological Museum in Dublin, you would know that Hill of Tara is a site of a massive burial known as the “Mound of Hostages.” This passage tomb is in a similar style as the Newgrange burial mounds.
The rolling green covers up the fact that 250 to 300 bodies were buried during the Neolithic time period. Also buried were signs of a possible wooden structure surrounding the ditches at the Hill of Tara. A low dented field called the “Banquet Hall” appeared to link with the wooden earthwork.
While we don’t know if the Neolithic Irish people actually feasted there, I certainly had a great lunch at one of the nearby gift shop/coffee shop/lunch place. I highly recommend seafood chowder and Irish stout. The seafood chowder was creamy and full of actual seafood, unlike some places. Irish stout was rich and flavorful even without all that coffee or chocolate flavoring that breweries in other countries often like to do.
Let’s keep on winding back the clock to as early as the Mesolithic period. Humans have settled in the Brú na Bóinne, or the Boyne Valley, since at least the Mesolithic period. When most of the Mesolithic hunter-gatherers slowly transformed to farms in the Neolithic period, the Boyne Valley was still a popular choice of residence, for the living and the beyond living.
The most impressive structure in the Boyne Valley would be non-other than Newgrange. Unlike its well-known cousins like Macchu Picchu, Stonehenge, or the Grand Pyramid of Giza, Newgrange, Dowth, and Knowth are much older but seldomly visited. Yet visiting it, you will realize that the earthworks, the stone carvings, the wooden henges are screaming for someone to discover their stories.
There are so many tales and stories out there. There is the story of the incest brother and sister which corresponds to the first-degree cousins found at Dowth. There is the story of the banishment of the mystical Tuatha Dé Dananns using Newgrange which is linked with the non-existent DNA similarities of present-day Irish with their Neolithic ancestors. Then there is also the story of a woman who hid in Newgrange during a winter snowstorm who was then impregnated by the god who came by the light. Then son became a hero-leader of the Tuatha Dé Dananns. Another possible link to shining of the light into the roof box of Newgrange’s inner chamber during the winter solstice.
You can’t really blame the story makers. The theatrical effect of the place is cranked up to full. Just look at the stone carving on the walls and the meticulously stacked contrasting stones. Some had to be acquired from thousands of miles away. Archeological evidence in the valley showed signs of traveling, trades, and perhaps, hard labor that linked Newgrange to the British Isles, the Iberian peninsula, and regions as far as present-day Turkey!
Just like the rest of this island. Unassuming, yet full of surprises, mysteries, and memory-worthy moments. As we are winding back the history clock towards the origin of times. I headed back where I started this incredible road trip as well. It’s time to say goodbye. But I am sure, this won’t be the last time I come to this island full of mysteries and legends.
(insert ancient east sign)
