Chamonix, arguably where modern-day mountaineering started, is a climbing mecca. Mountaineering, ice climbing, rock climbing, indoor climbing, scrambling, you can find all sorts in abundance here. I was fortunate to have the opportunity to learn to climb with “Chamonix Experience” (they did not sponsor this). As climbing around a popular area like Chamonix usually involves a lot of coordination, allow me to give a few tips to get you ready.
Actual Climbing and Climbing Companies
- The French side
- Most likely, you will be lodged in Chamonix or one of the surrounding towns. Many companies provide guides and services. I had a decent experience with Chamonix Experience. Highly recommend them to you if you are a decent level rock or ice climber. One thing to note is that if you want to sign up for an intermediate level class, be sure to have climbed at least a 6B outdoor in your area and have done some climbing in your big alpine boots. The requirements on the website are below what the instructors actually expect.
- The French side(continued)
- Just so you know, I am an occasional climber with poor skills and fear of heights (climbing 6A outdoor on a good day, 5B on most days). Chamonix’s rock grading system seems to be consistently lower than what the climbs technically should be. My climbing instructor said, in the old days, climbers don’t like to grade the crack so high unless it is virtually impossible in their minds. Just like sick patients usually don’t grade pain levels 10 out of 10; apparently, old-time climbers usually didn’t grade many crags above 6B. Myth or not, climbing in Chamonix is not easy. Come prepared and be sure to train for it.
- The Italian side
- The town on the other side of the Mont Blanc is called Courmayeur, where cappuccinos are good and cheap. The huts weren’t too full when we stay there. Still, call ahead to make sure you have a spot to sleep. The hut you will stay while on the mountain is most likely the Torino hut. Many companies and training programs like to use the gentler slopes around the Torino hut to do crevasse rescue training or beginner-level ice climbing. Torino hut is also a good starting point for climbing the Dent du Geant. Please be aware, as of August 2019 Dent du Geant is deemed extremely unsafe to climb due to rock face collapsing onto the approach. Check before you go.
Climbing on the Italian side
Check your guide books!
Get your gear sorted
Never forget the meteo! My guide checks with global, French, and Swiss forecasts before setting out
The Mont Blanc
- Mont Blanc has many routes up and numerous ways down. We chose the popular route from Chamonix to Goûter, then up to the summit the next morning. The actual ascend with this route is very technical, with a mix of scrambling and glacier walking. However, it is by no means easy. Coupled with the frequent high wind and extremely low temperature, even the most seasoned climbers can encounter problems. Come prepared with extra warm mitts and B3 mountaineering boots in case of inclined weather. The Goûter hut needs to be reserved well in advance. As for camping possibilities, I don’t recommend camping on the mountain as you will get a fine for it. Plus, the environmental impact of staying in tents cannot be contained as well as staying at designated huts. If you have seen the situation on the approach to the Goûter hut, you will know what I mean.
- Many Chamonix shops and guiding services have route guides available. Be sure to read up on those route books before your departure. If you lack gear, don’t sweat, Chamonix has it all. Literally, everything. At good prices too. Be sure to check out a store called Snell Sports, which is a one-stop-shop for most gear. Alternatively, you can check out the gear exchange group of Chamonix for some nicely discounted second-hard gear.
- The last thing to note is that climbing Mont Blanc is boring for the guides. Many guides have complained to me as well as other guests about it through our climbs. As one guide put it: “with good clients climbing other interesting climbs, it’s not work. Mont Blanc is boring work.” Unfortunately, for them, most clients don’t have the skills they possess. Mont Blanc may be as high as their skill level allows. Now, not all guides will complain to you about it. If they do, please do not be put off by this. You are doing the climb for yourself, for fun, for your self-fulfillment. Do not let their “boring day at work” spoil your enjoyment of the mountain.
The Town
- The town of Chamonix is arguably the town with one of the most stunning views. It’s cute, quaint, and, as my climbing instructor said, a place that makes a dirty and tired climber just as comfortable as a high-collared business person. Strolling through the streets, you will find folks of all sorts. Chamonix area is popular for summer climbing and winter skiing, so it’s lively all year round. Usually, around July, the IFSC Climbing World Cup will also take place I Chamonix. If you plan on watching that, do go early with a binocular, or you will only see people’s heads. The roundabout where the competition takes place gets packed at least an hour before, so be sure to go early.
Food
- The Haute-Savoie region definitely has its own flavors of cuisine. Fondue, raclette(usually eaten in winter), tartiflette, anything with cheese and potatoes is very common in this mountain region. Don’t forget to try the local saucissons and beer! Though if you just come off the mountain and is craving for some grease, Chamonix has this fantastic burger joint in the center of town, which I highly recommend trying. Not one to usually recommend fast food, but this burger has gotten some grounded French flavors to their offerings. Even the onion rings are extra carefully made with thin crust lightly fried before serving.
Lodging
- You can find all sorts of lodging in Chamonix: luxury hotels, lovely apartment rentals, clean campgrounds, decent hotels, or anything else. The mountain huts and refuges here are of high quality as well! The hut by Aiguille du Midi comes with the best view. Rifugio Torino on the Italian side has delicious coffee and high-quality pasta ready for purchase. You will surely not to be mistreated in these Mont Blanc huts. Well, except for breakfast, when you only get a cup of coffee and a toast. The French charm is less welcoming than when you think you are about to go hungry for the next 12 hours. Note, you do need to bring your own sleeping bag and a sleeping bag liner if you are staying on the huts or a non-luxury hostel.
Transportation In and Around
- Coming in and out
- I took Eurostar to Paris, then bus to Chamonix. Long-distance busses are plenty comfortable in most of Europe. Theses busses are usually equipped with big windows and toilets, so you do not lack the views and the chances for No.2s. Trains can also get you into Chamonix with more limited schedules. Last I checked, it takes at least 2 transfers to get into Chamonix with exponentially higher prices than the bus services.
- Gondolas
- Chamonix Experience took care of the buying for most of the gondola tickets for me. However, I couldn’t help but notice the long lines forming every day. Be sure to get their half an hour before the gondola starts running. The gondolas will ferry the climbers up first before other passengers. Still, my guides had to pull some strings when the climbers’ queue got a bit long. Outside Chamonix, the gondola lines are much shorter. However, be aware that a lot of gondola lines outside of Chamonix are used to service the skiing spots. These gondolas may not be running during summer. Again, check before you go and stay flexible.
- Most of the gondola passes are sold by time, meaning sometimes you only need one pass for an entire day. Be sure to keep your tickets for going down.
- My favorite cable car ride was the one across the Vallée Blanche between Italy and France. This ride takes around 30 to 35 minutes. Along the way, you will see Courmayeur, Aiguille du Midi, Mont. Blanc, Dent du Geant, Pointe Helbronner, Chamonix, and all the other peaks around Vallée Blanche. You can take this from the station close to Rifugio Torino or from Aiguille du Midi. Because the ride is unusually long, be sure to check the ride timetable. The same goes for any other cable car/gondola rides around the Alps.
Alright, that’s all the tips I have now! Let me know if you have been to Chamonix. See you on the next post!
