Woobie Ruby's Adventures of Life

A little travel diary of Ruby. Make sure to check out the Highlight Reel!

Winter wonderland — Alaska unfrozen

There are very few places that are more suited to hide out a pandemic than Alaska during winter. I was fortunate to spend a-month-and-half exploring Alaska in an especially snowy year, mostly away from other people.

Just like summer, late winter in Alaska is an outdoor person’s dream. Plenty to do, plenty to see, regular sunlight while not losing the high possibilities to see the aurora(see next post). Daylight has returned to regular hours while still having snow on the ground. Below I will highlight some of the activities that I got to enjoy.

Hiking, Walking, Snowshoeing, and Peak Bagging

Anchorage is the perfect place to go hiking in not so flat terrain. Chugach National Forest and State Park offer ample amount of opportunities. Within 20 minutes of driving from my downtown Anchorage address, I had access to at least 30 different trails—all with stunning views. However, do be warned that winter hiking in Alaska isn’t for everyone. The uneven and varying trail conditions often pose considerable challenges to newcomers.

I recommend investing in a very good pair of hiking poles with snow baskets, microspikes, or steel crampons that can fit onto your hiking shoes. I even brought my ice ax with me on some of the peaks in case the going gets dangerous on steeper angles.

As far as preparation for climbing the smaller peaks around the Chugach mountains, there are a few more things to consider than what we are used to thinking in the lower 48s. Icy paths, loose snow, packed snow, mudflats, rocky plains, all could be in a half-an-hour hike. Be prepared for all the possibilities as you are readying your backpack for Alaska winter hiking. In addition to the usual things I bring on a solo hike, I also got an emergency reflective poncho, ice ax, GPS, and layers that can last me up to 30 below freezing.

If you are not afraid of the steep hills, I recommend checking out the Wolverine Peak, Bird Ridge, Harp Mountain, Rainbow Peak, The Dome, and Flattop Mountain. All of these peaks are usually marked by the footsteps of others. Not all of the trails are going to be well packed. In fact, most of these peaks have a considerable amount of loose snow the year I went. If you are unsure if your route is safe, check the relevant website for the most up-to-date information. Most of the trails I have listed run through the safest routes possible to ascend that peak; however, it is worse noting that avalanche risk is generally pretty high in Alaska, with Anchorage frequently experiencing earthquakes. The smallest mistakes here can cost you dearly.

If you are not up for the more extreme hiking routes, you can try to go on a guided glacier hike on the Matanuska Glacier, located 2 hours away from Anchorage. The incredible thing about glacier hikes is that the routes change every few days depending on the glacial formation, weather, and glacier flow. If you really want to, you can go it a few more times during your trip here in Alaska for different glaciers’ views.

A little bit more challenging was the hike to the Castner Glacial Cave. Though you will be richly rewarded by one of the most stunning ice cave views.

Alternatively, you can also try walking on a frozen lake. Due to the climate change, Portage Glacier has retreated at least 3 miles. You now have to walking on a frozen lake to access the glacier in the in winter months.

Winter Climbing

If you have not tried it before, I highly recommend trying waterfall ice climbing around the Anchorage area. You have a chance to climb the stunning frozen waterfalls. February and March might be the best time to attempt ice climbing in Alaska. Most of the waterfalls grew to a complete length, meaning that they reach the ground. At the same time, temperatures are getting warmer, and the daylight lasts longer.

I signed up with Joe at Alaskan Guide collective, who was excellent throughout the trip. He took all the precautions during our trip to avoid catching COVID.

For very seasoned veteran climbers, a winter ascent of Denali is also possible. Although like many peaks in the higher altitudes, the highest peak in North America is extremely unpredictable in summer, let alone the 50 below winter conditions. Prior experience, preparation, training, and the right mindset are the keys to success

Winter Camping

Yes, winter camping is a thing here in Alaska! You can set up a tent yourself or try car camping. Regardless of what you choose, I do recommend a -20 to -30 sleeping bag as the night temperature can drop drastically. A lot of the campground wouldn’t be open in the winter. Alaskan state resources do have a very good online tracking system that shows which campground is open or not. I camped at the Bird Creek, 15 minutes west of Girdwood by the Seward Highway(hwy 1). To my surprise, there were quite a few people out there camping as well, some with very small kids.

Alternatively, you can also try one of the public cabins that are offered by the state parks. I stayed at the one in Byer’s Lake. Though from visiting another yurt-style cabin, I could honestly recommend all of the public cabins. It also means that the cabins are usually fully booked on the weekends, even in the dead of winter. If you are really keen on trying one of these cabins, be sure to look for availability way in advance!

Most people will leave something in the cabin for the next person in case they needed it, though don’t always count on this. It’s always a good idea to bring your own lighting and firewood to the public cabins.

Do be aware that most of the cabins require you to snowshoe/ski through deep snow with all your luggage. Alternatively, you can also drive a snow machine in like the locals do. Regardless, you will likely need a sled to help you transport all of your luggage in the deep snow. If you don’t fancy wasting money on getting an expensive sled, try Walmart, Goodwill, and Play It Again.

Airbnb also has cabins. They are usually furnished with electricity and heaters. Still, most of the cabins are dry cabins, meaning that there is no running water. That also likely means that you will need to use the out-house instead of the inside bathrooms.

I stayed at a dog musher’s cabin outside of Fairbanks which had a great view of the aurora. On clear days, you can see it right from your window. There is no need to sign up for expensive tours that lead you to chill in the cold for a couple of hours. Why wait in the cold when you can wait in your bed? We will talk a bit more about Aurora on the next post.

Winter Driving

Why is winter driving an adventurous activity, you ask? Well, for those who are not used to driving in conditions that are icy, snowy, and mountainous, driving is an activity that easily requires all of your attention. But you will be richly awarded by the fantastic view of the Alaskan wilderness. And if you are driving on anything other than highways 1 and 3, you might not see another car for 60 miles. You are literally in a world of your own!

Even if you are driving on highway 1 and 3, there are plenty of turnouts that lets you pause and enjoy the gorgeous sceneries. The most surreal section had to be between Trapper’s Creek and Healy on the Parks Highway. This section of the drive is right by the Denali National Park, hence the name “Parks Highway.” On this section, you can see all the surrounding peaks, including the main show: Denali.

You can check the 511 website for the most up-to-date information on the road conditions. Alaskan transportation has cameras capturing the actual picture of the roads a few times a day to give you the best information. I drove a Subaru Outback, which is probably one of the best cars for winter road conditions. Even though I did not have snow tires, the AWD was adequate for the road I drove through. Still, being very cautious is highly recommended for most of the wintery roads up here in Alaska.

If you are planning on driving towards the Arctic circle or beyond on the Dalton Highway, make sure you are adequately equipped or sign up for one of the Northern Alaskan Company’s tours. Companies that rent normal rental cars won’t allow you to drive on the Dalton highway as it is a gravel road. The few companies that do rent out cars to the Dalton highway charge around $200 to $300 a day with all the equipment.

The tours offered by the Northern Alaskan company are honestly pretty great. Activities ranging from driving past the Atigun pass to the Arctic ocean to dog sledding all are of great quality. This company also helps bring packages and haul trash along the Dalton Highway, so you’d be supporting the local communities too. They also operate everything around Coldfoot, including their well-equipped cafeteria and lodge.

 I went on an all-day tour to the north of the Atigun pass on the Dalton highway for caribou and the Brooks mountain range views. I could recommend this tour to anyone interested in a day full of none stop gorgeous views.

One of the best activities to do in winter in Alaska would be Aurora viewing. On the next blog, we will talk about aurora viewing.

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