Acclimatization is the most important factor to consider in big mountain climbing. Normally, it is done by going up several trips at different heights above the base camp. Depending on the height of the mountain and the acclimatization of the team members, these higher camp trips, or rotations, are managed differently. The Sardar(leader of the Sherpas) decided that two rotations are optimal for our team. First rotation to camp 1 and down in one day. The second rotation is done in three days sleeping at camp 1 and 2; coming down the third day. Even though the trek back to base camp each rotation involves a mentally exhausting trek across a kilometer long glacier field, the comfort and the relative luxury at the base camp is usually worth the extra effort for us. However, none of this can start without a proper puja ceremony to begin with.
Puja ceremony is usually held at base camps for expeditions. This is an important part of the mountain rituals in Sherpa culture. Stemming from the Buddhist and local beliefs, puja ceremonies give on permission to enter into the mountains without angering the gods that live there. As one Nepalese explained to me, it is important that one gives some gifts to the gods in exchange for the safe passages. At the same time, one can also receive some blessings from the mountain gods as part of the “exchange”. Commonly, mountaineers will bring gears to the puja ceremony to be blessed along with the humans in hopes that these gears will keep us warm and safe. For the Sherpas, it is also a good opportunity to partake in some form of celebration drinking; not that it is actually meant to be.
Everyone is getting blessed 
Whisky drinking was also part of the blessings
Quick word on logistics
One of the advantages of doing multiple rotations is that we can split our load carried up to the camps; making each load lighter and easier. During the rotations, the Sherpas will carry the tent, necessities, and food. Per our contract, we still need to carry our own things. If there are extra manpower like what we did (some of our teammates dropped out early), Sherpas sometimes will help offload some of our weight. Everyone does their load differently, I try to keep my packs around 10 to 12 kilo total(include bag weight) throughout the trip. Now, I couldn’t have done this without some of the Sherpa help. This was especially helpful for me as my lady-once-a-month-bleeding as well as being at altitude for a long time were quickly wearing down both my energy and muscles. By the second time up to camp 2(the summit bid), I was significantly slower and more tired; something to aware of for the next expedition.
This was a shorter expedition compared to Everest, so the Sherpas do not do extra trips up the mountain more than the clients (per my observations). They generally went up when we went up. Some of them went on even fewer trips than us because they are much faster and could cover at least double the distance in the same amount of time. A true display of their strength.
Base Camp to Camp 1
The current based camp of Himlung actually id not necessarily located in the best spot for tackling this climb. A better spot looks to be the so-called the “French Camp” facing the current base camp on the other side of a 1km moving glacier. Sadly, the moraine which the current base camp, as well as the trek from Phu, sit on is also constantly moving along with the glacier. This meant that a bridge across the glacier is not possible. With the bridge navigating the glacier is very much a rather annoying up and down fair that involves a final 50 meters up an extremely slippery dirt slope. This was one of the only bits that require one to wear a helmet in case of rockfall.
After arriving at the French base camp, the trek was steep up all the way till camp 1. Though the rest of the trek was fairly uneventful, the time estimation from Base Camp to camp 1 is around 3 to 4 hours due to the glacier.(This estimation was largely based on my own speed)
Camp 1 to camp 2
Camp 1 to camp 2 involved my least favorite part of the entire climb. Depending on where camp 2 is, the elevation gain goes from 600 meters to 900 meters. However, one decides to do it, it will always involve an annoying rock field that encompasses about 250 meters right out of camp 1. It does not involve climbing nor scrambling of any sort; just big pebbles and scree everywhere that makes it hard one hard to pace the steps or have any sort of rhythm. My own energy is usually worn out quite fast on these types of terrain; I much prefer just climbing or nicely paces climbed.
Though each to their own. My teammates were able to ascend these extremely fast. After the rocky field and some bits of mixed rock and snow, comes the scrambling section. This is where most people start using the fixed line for safety. I personally find the scrambling section a nice change of pace through this section of the climb. At the end of this section is the crampon point this season. This was also the start of the last section of the climb.
Please be aware that this section does have crevasses, so follow the footsteps carefully if you are going through it. The estimation of time for this section was also 3 to 4 hours based on my own (slow) speed.
Lastly, let me not forget to talk about the living situation at our Himlung base camp. Please keep in mind that depending on the company, one’s experience or base camp living conditions could be very different. This is simply a reflection of my experience with Satori expeditions.
Food, food, food! Nutrition is one of the most important contributors to a successful climb. I must say that the food at base camp was great for me personally. Compared to my last trip to Nepal Khumbu region which saw me downing nutrition pills due to lack of protein and fruits, the food on this trip were leaps and bounds better. They snacks, tea, and chips were plentiful. Additionally, we also had fruits to make up for the vitamin C loss.
Keeping in mind that most food had to be brought in through mules or helicopters, I am extremely grateful for the variety of food. The chef even tempted to try some different presentations of the food! Though please do not expect Michelin stars or even good level of cooking as remote and higher altitude condition does not allow much for the wanting. The most important thing is that one can get some level of nutrition intake, and lots of energy intake. Though do be aware, both times in Nepal I have found the companies to have a hard time accommodating special dietary needs. The kitchen usually asks you just simply not to eat certain things and not make replacement arrangements. Though I do not know is this is a widespread problem with Nepalese companies or climbing in Nepal in general (I didn’t encounter this problem in Peru on Salkantay trek, nor in Russia for Elbrus). Please do bring some supplementary food if you do have dietary restrictions just in case.
At base camp, we each had our own tent which seemed to be the common practice at the base camps in the Himalayas. As each person has their own napping schedule, this arrangement proved to be extremely helpful!
As for personal hygiene, each company had its own toilet tents. Most companies provide a shower as well! Granted, they are warm bucket showers.
The dining tent is perhaps the most important gathering location for us at the base camp. This is where all the enjoyable things happen (card, movies, not to say eating!). Our dining tent has solar battery and charging, as well as a heater powered by propane. Say goodbye to those shivering dinning nights and dying phones!
Depending on the size of the client and the Sherpa group, a separate dining tent is provided away from the kitchen. Though the advantage of being in the kitchen tent is extra warmth all day! (which is actually too hot during sunny days).
